Craft History
THE KASHMIRI LEGACY: SOZAN-KAARI
Sozni Embroidery (also known as Sozan Kaari) is a popular needle point embroidery technique from Kashmir valley. Kashmiri artisans have been practicing Sozni embroidery since almost 500 years ago. It’s mainly done in woolen and silk fabrics and very famous for it’s use in Pashmina Cashmere Shawls and Pherans. Sozni, like many other Arts of Kashmir was brought into Kashmir by the revered saint and scholar Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani (RA). Among the 700 Persian craftsmen that came with him to Kashmir, were a number of Sozin Kaars (needle workers). When Shah Hamdan came to Ladakh and discovered Pashmina, he introduced shawl making in Kashmir and taught the locals how to embellish the craft using Sozni Work. Thus began the precious art of Sozni Kaari, also known as switching in local lingo.
TRADITIONAL PHERAN
The history of pherans is the oldest to say the least. As early as 15 century, it’s believed, pheran grew its roots in Kashmir. In early days, pheran was not just something one chose to wear, but also something that defined modesty & regard. In summer as well as winter, both men & women wore pheran. Different types of Pherans, like Aari-Work, Tilla-Work and Sozni Embroidered.
KANI SHAWL OF KASHMIR
If we went back to ages, the historians believe that the Kani Shawl weaving in Kashmir was imported from Persia. The founder of the industry was Zayn-ul-ʿĀbidīn, a 15th-century ruler of Kashmir who introduced weavers from Turkistan. A Kani Shawl is a type of Cashmere Shawl originating from the Downtown area of Srinagar. It is one of the oldest handicraft of Kashmir. After so many decades it lost its glory. Again in 1987-88 the artisan namely Ghulam Muhammad Baba brought it’s glory back in Kashmir valley he weaved KANI WORK on Shahtoosh & Pashmina and the production was weaving mainly in two blocks of Srinagar one is Eidgah and another is Zadibal. The shawls were woven from pashmina yarn with wooden needles on a traditional handloom.